EN07 ／ ENODEN STORIES
The silver flavor of the fishing port, the old stories of the train street
The silver flavor of the fishing port, the old stories of the train street
Koshigoe brings samurai history and fishing-village life together on the same street. Manpukuji Temple is known for the legend of Minamoto no Yoshitsune being kept outside Kamakura and leaving his Koshigoe Letter. Toward the sea are the fishing harbor and Cape Koyurugi. Between Enoshima and Koshigoe, Enoden shares part of the road with cars; trains passing directly in front of shops are an iconic sight. Seafood and shirasu whitebait add local flavor to the walk.
This stop, walk like this · Suggested 120–180 minutes
Raw shirasu depends on fishing closures, sea conditions and the day’s catch. Boiled shirasu, fritters and other local fish offer equally local flavors. Koyurugi Shrine involves an uphill walk; photograph the street-running trains from public pedestrian areas.
From public pedestrian areas, observe how trains and shops share the street.
View Enoshima and the fishing village from along the open coastline; avoid operational areas as indicated.
Enjoy shirasu dishes, or choose nearby Ikedamaru’s Koshigoe main restaurant.
Choose either Shirasuya or Ikedamaru for this meal stop; there is no need to plan two full lunches. Water-sports lessons require separate reservations and are not included in this walking route.
THE STORY OF EN07
Begin with shirasu to discover Koshigoe’s local flavors: the little silver fish here are the whitebait common in Shonan cooking. Boiled shirasu is soft, fritters are crisp and fragrant, and raw servings depend on fishing closures and the day’s catch. Comparing different preparations of the same seafood reveals more of the fishing village’s table than seeking only raw shirasu.
Manpukuji preserves traditions of Minamoto no Yoshitsune and the Koshigoe Letter, while Koyurugi Shrine connects with maritime faith. In the streets, Enoden trains share the road with cars. Fit the temples, shrine and coast around your meal so history, harbor life and everyday trains meet in one walk.
Koshigoe Coast offers views of Enoshima and sea surface activities; if you'd like to try surfing or SUP, local professional instructors are available for consultation. The specific sea area used for the course, and whether classes are held on a given day, shall be arranged by the operator based on participants' skill levels and daily sea conditions; the fishing port operation zone and navigation channels are not equivalent to the leisure launch area.
WALK A LITTLE FURTHER
Explore legends of Minamoto no Yoshitsune, Benkei and the Koshigoe Letter. Follow the temple’s explanations for the historical stories.
About a 3-minute walk from Koshigoe Station. See the Koshigoe Letter and exhibits related to Yoshitsune inside the temple first, then watch Enoden trains out front. Read historical evidence separately from later legends, and stay in public pedestrian areas when photographing trains.
On Cape Koyurugi, connected with Koshigoe’s maritime faith and fishing-village culture.
From Koshigoe Station, walk about 6 minutes, visit the shrine first, then go to the viewing area to see Enoshima. The cape and stairs have strong winds, so it's suitable to combine with a lunch at the fishing port; do not cross the fence or enter the unopened rocky shore for the sea view.
Viewing the scenery of Enoshima and the fishing village from the coast; access to the fishing port operation area depends on on-site signage.
Walk from the station to the coast, then return for a meal in front of the harbor, taking in Enoshima and the boats. Swimming-beach access, surfing lessons and fishing-harbor access each have different rules. Do not use piers or navigation channels as recreational entry points into the water.
There is still traffic and trains running on the roadway; take photos in the pedestrian-only areas where people can walk, and never step onto the tracks.
Koshigoe Station is a station with staff present during the day. According to the current Enoden guidelines, the wheelchair lift is available from 10:00 to 16:00, with operation taking approximately 10 minutes; it is not available outside of these hours. For passengers using wheelchairs, it is essential to include both boarding and alighting times in their itinerary prior to departure, and to verify the latest Enoden announcements before travel.
TASTE THE NEIGHBOURHOOD
In front of Koshigoe Fishing Harbor, this is a place to make shirasu whitebait the main meal of your walk. Look for boiled shirasu, shirasu fritters and the day’s fish dishes. Raw shirasu depends on the season and catch; check availability on site.
Check for the address 2-10-13 Koshigoe to find the harbor-front branch in this entry. The same website lists a main branch at 2-10-26 Koshigoe; its 11:00–17:00 hours do not apply here. Ask whether raw shirasu is available that day before choosing a bowl with both raw and cooked shirasu or a dish with boiled shirasu.
Shirasuya's Shirasu-zukushi set meal brings together raw shirasu whitebait, boiled shirasu, tatami-iwashi dried whitebait sheets, tsukudani and fritters in one meal. For a simpler rice bowl, look for the two-color bowl with half raw and half cooked shirasu. Shirasu fishing around Kamakura and Enoshima is closed from January 1 to March 10. Even during the fishing season, raw shirasu depends on the day's catch. Check what is available before choosing raw shirasu, boiled shirasu or other local fish landed that day.
Koshigoe 2-chome, a fisherman's restaurant located by the fishing port. The official website lists boiled shirasu whitebait bowl, raw and cooked two-color bowl, shirasu whitebait deep-fried pancake bowl, and local fish set meal; customers may choose sashimi, stewed fish, or grilled fish based on the daily catch. Please confirm the Koshigoe main store, which also has an Inamuragasaki branch.
The dining room is on the second floor; downstairs is the fishing-boat reception counter, so do not queue for a meal on the first floor. Check the day’s fish before choosing sashimi, simmered fish or grilled fish. Arriving around the start of weekday lunch service may reduce the wait. This is the Koshigoe main branch, separate from the Inamuragasaki branch.
Next stop, a different sea breeze.
Back to Kamakura’s three chapters